Please note that there will not be a meeting at Fisherrow next week as we are to visit Beeslack CC in Penicuik for an AV evening.
The following week, Thursday 6th March, we will be joined by the Musselburgh Art Club and will be in the large room (32). It will be an opportunity to see some Artistic Paintings and compare them with Photographic Photoshopping!
Please bring along some of your prints so that we can have a good representation of MCC’s efforts.
Following the Set Subject (Street Photography) recently judged, last night we had the opportunity to hear from members as to how they came to take their images and what they thought about when they were taken.
The next Set Subject (Night Photography) need to be submitted by 20th March. As these are for projection I hope that all members will select up to 3 images and either bring in a CD/memory stick or e mail them to me.
For the more advanced members (if you do not already do so) set your metering to manual – decide on your shutter speed (depending on your lens and movement of your subject) select the f stop(depending on required depth of field) and have your ISO at say 200.
By being on manual you should see in the viewfinder the metering scale which will tell if you are over exposed or under exposed – move one ( or more) of the parameters by the number of stops to get the correct exposure either in a matrix or spot setting. Remember three clicks or button pressing will change the setting by one stop. Take the image and look at your histogram and it should show that there is no clipping and you will have achieved a correct exposure (no loss of detail) with less work to do in Photoshop.
Then think about focusing – the best part of your lens is in the centre – so keep the focal point in the centre and get this on the point in the image which you want to be the sharpest and re compose. However to get better control, disable the auto focus on the shutter button (via the menu – look at manual if you can find it) and use the focus lock button – once you have auto focused it will lock that point until you refocus, so you can recompose your image as many times as you like and the original focus will be maintained.
Instead of using the Aperture Priority mode as I have normally used in the past I used the above procedure over the last few weeks (it does get a bit of getting used to) but I have found that I got a much better results in respect of exposure and focusing.